Colombia

Al final de este post vas a encontrar una sección de comentarios para que me hagas cualquier pregunta que tengas sobre este país.

Peso Colombiano

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Temporada Alta

Diciembre – Marzo

Temporada de lluvias

Abril – Noviembre

Medellín

Cómo ir de el aeropuerto José María Cordoba a Medellín?

Primero que nada tenés que saber que en Medellín hay dos aeropuertos:
Aeropuerto Olaya Herrera que queda en la zona céntrica, pero de donde únicamente despegan vuelos de cabotaje, aunque mi vuelo a Cartagena también salió del aeropuerto internacional. Aeropuerto Internacional José María Cordoba que está ubicado a unos 45 minutos de la ciudad de Medellín.

Para moverte del Aeropuerto internacional a la ciudad tenés tres opciones: 

Taxis: A penas salgas de la puerta del aeropuerto vas a encontrar un montón de conductores ofreciéndote su servicio el precio del viaje puede variar pero ronda de los $70.000 a los $90.000 col.

Uber: En Colombia funciona el Uber! Lo único es que vas a tener que tener acceso a internet para pedirlo y rogar que alguien te acepte el viaje. Uber aún no está instalado ‘legalmente’ en el país por lo que es más bien un servicio de transporte informal. Mi recomendación, es que chequees la hora en la que te tomarías el taxi/Uber y en la app te fijes cuánto te saldría el trayecto del aeropuerto a el punto donde necesitas ir en el hipotético caso de que te tomes un Uber. De este modo, en caso de tomarte un taxi vas a poder tener en claro cuánto debería cobrarte y en caso de que quieran hacerte pagar un precio exorbitante vas a poder regatear.

Esta opción es buena si tenés el presupuesto (obvio) o si llegas muy tarde en la noche. Con esto abro un paréntesis para decir que no aclaro esto porque se trate de la ciudad de Medellín, sino que en cualquier lugar que visites si llegas de noche siempre deberías intentar encontrar la forma más directa para llegar, teniendo en cuenta que vas a estar cargando todos tus bolsos/valijas con vos.

Bus + tren:
Esta fue la opción por la que yo opte. Los buses se encuentran también a la salida del aeropuerto, pasando a los muchachos de los taxis, hacia la derecha. Son unos buses blancos con letras verdes, por las dudas pregúntale a la persona que está atendiendo antes de subirte si ese bus se dirige hacia la zona de ‘San Diego’ porque hay buses que te dejan en otro punto.

El tiempo aproximado de viaje es de 45’ y el costo del mismo es de $10.000 col.

Una vez que te bajas en San Diego, tenés que caminar hacia la izquierda unas 4 cuadras. Vas a sentir que te perdiste, porque hay que pasar por debajo de una autopista, pero seguí caminando y en la misma dirección y en seguida vas a ver la estructura del tren.

Te vas a subir al tren en la estación Exposiciones y en mi caso me baje en el Poblado. El costo es $2.500 col.

De nuevo y repito, estamos hablando de 12.500 col ante 70.000 col. El servicio de trenes en Medellín es excelente.  Te recomiendo que busques un hostel/hotel cerca de alguna estación de metro. Vas a usar este medio de transporte para moverte por casi toda la cuidad. Yo particularmente me quede en el Poblado, conocido por ser uno de los barrios de estrato más alto, pero que tanta etiqueta no te intimide, porque se consiguen hostels buenos y baratos.

Estación de trenes. Están muy bien señalizadas y hay control policial. 

Qué puedo hacer en el centro de Medellín?

Palacio de la cultura: la entrada es gratis y abre a las 8 am. No dejes de subir hasta el último piso donde vas a poder tener una vista panorámica de la ciudad. La dirección exacta es Carrera 51 No. 52-03. Y de lunes a viernes está abierto hasta las 17 hs, y Sábados hasta las 14 hs. Los dias domingo, permanece cerrado. 

Recibe su nombre como homenaje a Rafael Uribe Uribe, destacado líder nacional en el ámbito público y en su ejercicio como abogado, militar, diplomático, escritor, político, periodista, y empresario. Justamente su vida y su obra es el eje de la exposición permanente que se encuentra en el primer piso del Palacio.

Si vas no dejes de subir a la terraza, tiene unas vistas inceíbles. 

En el interior te vas a encontrar con muchas oficinas, pero tambien hay otros espacios antigüos para ver. 

Plaza botero: queda en el medio entre el palacio de la justicia y el museo de Antioquia, en ella vas a poder encontrar réplicas de esculturas de Botero.

Las 23 esculturas en la plaza, fueron donadas por el artista Botero y representan cada una de ellas temas específicos. Figuran entonces: Maternidad, Mujer con fruta, Mujer con espejo, Hombre Caminante, Mujer sentada, Mujer reclinada, Hombre a Caballo, Soldado romano, Hombre vestido, Mano, Cabeza, Pensamiento, Adán, Eva, Caballo, Perro, Gato, Esfinge, Rapto de Europa, Caballo con bridas, mujer vestida entre otras.

Cómo llegar? Con el metro te tenés que bajar en la estación Parque Berrio, ojo! Porque cuando estaba buscando cómo ir me figuraba que me tenía que bajar en la estación Prado, pero en realidad esta estación es una parada más adelante.

Escultura ‘Gato’, una de las más conocidas de Botero. 

Museo de Antioquia: abre a las 10 am y la entrada cuesta $18.000 col. Si sos estudiante, aunque seas extranjero lleva la cédula de tu facultad. Yo me la olvide porque pensé que era solo para estudiantes nacionales, pero en la taquilla había un letrero que a extranjeros también les aplicaban un descuento del 50%. No dejes de visitar el salón internacional, donde vas a poder encontrar muchas obras de Botero exhibidas.  

El museo fue fundado en 1881, el Museo de Antioquia cuenta con una colección de más de 5.000 piezas que incluyen desde bienes integrantes del patrimonio arqueológico de la Nación, hasta arte contemporáneo. En 1975 la institución recibió del maestro Fernando Botero el cuadro “El Exvoto”, donación que abrió el camino a una relación muy cercana y que lo llevó a realizar nuevas donaciones en 1975, 1984 y a finales de los noventa, cuando se estableció la nueva sede del Museo y se construyó la Plaza de las Esculturas, más conocida como Plaza Botero.

Todas las obras de botero tienen un contraste muy fuerte con tematicas sociales de Colombia. Las mas recientes referidas al narcotráfico y a Pablo Escobar.

Tour comuna 13:  Yo hice mi reserva con un free walking tour con Zippy tours, el guía que me tocó para el grupo de español se llamaba John Steven y aunque su nombre pareciera de ‘gringo’ como él mismo decía, vive en la comuna hace 18 años. Realmente lo recomiendo muchísimo, no solo da el tour de manera excelente sino que tiene una mirada más de insight y te cuenta cómo se vivió y se vive actualmente en la comuna. 

Él se encuentra de lunes a viernes y algún que otro fin de semana. De todos modos, nos recomendaron que de volver a hacer el tour lo hiciésemos en día de semana, ya que el fin de semana suele llenarse el doble con gente. 

El costo del tour que te comentaba es a donación voluntaria. 

Este tour puede hacerse a las 10hs  o a las 14hs. Yo elegí el de las 14 porque a la mañana fui al centro y tenía miedo que hiciera mucho calor, si bien al comienzo la caminata fue un poco dura a eso de las 17hs cuando esta finalizando la vista cambio totalmente con la puesta del sol y valió totalmente la pena. 

El punto de encuentro es en la entrada principal de la estación San Javier y el recorrido se hace en su totalidad a pie por lo que te recomiendo llevar calzado, ropa cómoda y mucho protector solar. Se recorren los grafittis y las escaleras mecánicas. En este tour al menos, vas a y volvés por la misma vía, por lo que si no te da el tiempo de sacar todas las fotos que querías en la ida podes hacerlo a la vuelta. De todos modos se hacen paradas de descanso en puntos claves donde podes tomar las fotos que quieras. 

El tour finaliza en el punto de encuentro (estación San Javier).

Durante todo el recorrido vas a ver mucho arte callejero y algo que me llamó mucho la atención, es el sistema de escaleras mecánicas que conectan los distintos niveles de la comuna.

Recomiendo full elegir el turno de la tarde para hacer el tour, es mucho mas fresco para caminar y el atardecer se ve bellísimo.

Para aprovechar: 

Con el mismo boleto que compras de metro para llegar a San Javier (2.500 col) podes hacer la combinación con la línea J (amarilla) y subirte al metro cable hasta La Aurora, hacer la vuelta completa y bajar de nuevo. Yo lo hice antes del tour a eso de las 12:30, el recorrido completo dura unos 25 minutos.

Te recomiendo hacerlo luego del tour de las 10 am o antes de el de las 14 am cómo yo. El metro cable es un medio de transporte para la gente que vive en las comunas más alejadas, por lo que a eso de las 17 hs comienza la hora pico en donde la gente vuelve a sus casas, por lo que los vagones seguramente estén más llenos.

Realmente recomiendo hacer este mini tour express. Literal es un paseo dentro del metro cable pero vas a poder tener las mejores vistas de Medellín (en mi opinión).

Guatapé & Piedra del Peñol

Dónde compro mi pasaje de Guatapé/Piedra del Peñol?

Te tenés que bajar Caribe del metro y luego dirigirte hacia izquierda (te vas a dar cuenta porque esta la terminal de buses norte) . De ahí vas a pasar una especie de puente hasta llegar a la terminal. La agencia que vende los pasajes queda en plata baja y en el puesto 14 (la fachada de la empresa es roja)  El costo del pasaje es de $14.000 colombianos y el tiempo de viaje es de aproximadamente 2 hs.

Una vez que llegas tenés la opción de bajarte en el Peñol o bajarte en Guatapé. Yo te recomiendo que vayas primero a la piedra lo más temprano que puedas para aprovechar que todavía está algo fresco y no hay tanta gente. Cuando te del bus, tenés la opción de subir hasta la base (cómo hice yo) o pagar un transporte de aprox $3.000 col. Te aconsejo que en caso de subir hasta la base a pie, no te entusiasmes y vayas rápido, sino que te tomes tu tiempo y disfrutes el camino, ya vas a tener 659 escalones ‘oficiales’ y un par mas hasta la punta del mirador por delante para subir.

La entrada cuesta $18.000 col. Mi recomendación es que te tomes tu tiempo para subir la piedra, pares las veces que necesites y disfrutes el paisaje. En áreas del recorrido las escaleras son muy angostas, pero hay partes en donde los escalones son más anchos y podes aprovechar para sentarte y recuperar un poco de aire.

Consideraciones generales para esta excursión:

Llevar ropa muy cómoda

Definitivamente no es el lugar para estrenar esos zapatos nuevos que llevaste para el viaje o ponerte ropa con la que te sientas incómodx. Es importante además de que el calzado tenga una buena suela, ya que en partes de las escaleras suele estar mojado.

Llevar mucha agua y algún que otro snack para el camino

Tanto en la base como arriba de la piedra vas a encontrar puestos que vendan bebidas y comida. En la base te van a cobrar aprox el doble que en Medellín y arriba hasta el triple (claramente se aprovechan de que acabas de subir 659 escalones ‘oficiales’ y 700 y pico reales hasta donde termina el mirador, para evitar esto llévate tus provisiones.

En cuanto a la bajada hacerlo con mucha prudencia, en partes las escaleras están aún más empinadas que en la subida y no tienen barandas para agarrarse. Lo bueno es que por un lado se sube y hay un camino separado para bajar, esto evita embotellamientos y gente chocándose.

Preparate para hacer cola si queres una buena foto… Si, yo odio ese tipo de experiencias, pero para evitarlo lo más posible, andá bien temprano.

Guatapé

En la base del Peñol no encontré un transporte que me llevara a Guatapé, la mayoría eran buses y busetas de paquetes turísticos. Lo que tenés que hacer para tomarte el bus con el que viniste desde Medellín (de la misma compañía) , es bajar de nuevo por las escaleras en las que subiste hasta la base del Peñol.

Ahí vas a poder: 

Esperar el bus, te cobra $2000 col para llevarte hasta Guatapé 

O hay tuc tucs que te ofrecen el viaje por $10.000 o $12.000 col. El truco acá es regatear. A mi me lo ofrecieron y les dije que no, porque no había chance de que me bajasen tanto el precio, pero me puse a hablar con una pareja de Colombianos que también estaban esperando el bus y conseguimos que nos deje el viaje a $7000 col por los tres. Así que lo ideal es que intentes completar los tres asientos con alguien que encuentres esperando también e intentar que les bajen el precio. 

Guatapé es una ciudad muy pintoresca llena de zócalos hechos a mano y colores. Yo evite almorzar en el Peñol y lo hice en Guatapé. Hay mucha opción de restaurantes y tipos de comida, mi recomendación es que recorras un par de lugares hasta que encuentres el lugar con la mejor opción/precio. Suelen tener la carta a mano así que vas a poder chequear el menú y los precios rápidamente. Yo almorcé una milanesa de pescado con papas fritas, patacón, ensalada y una limonada, todo muy abundante por $23.000 col. 

Para recorrer la ciudad, podes alquilar una ‘chiva’ que te lleva por las calles de la ciudad y te va explicando un poco la historia. Desconozco el precio porque opte por la opción de hacer el recorrido a pie para lograr apreciar mejor las fachadas, que como te comentaba son preciosas y muy pintorescas. Lo que siento que faltó fue algún puesto de walking tours o si los había estaban muy bien camuflados. 

Para volver a Medellín tenés que caminar hasta la terminal que queda cerca de la iglesia central, allí la vuelta me salió $15.000 col (desconozco el por qué de la diferencia de $1000 col entre la ida y la vuelta). Cuando estaba leyendo e investigando antes de hacer este viaje leí muchas veces que era recomendable comprar el ticket de vuelta una vez que llegabas con el bus de la piedra a Guatapé. En mi caso, como fui con un tuc tuc que me dejo en otro punto, no llegue a la terminal directamente y decidí acercarme y comprar el ticket cuando ya me quería volver. Estoy viajando a fines de febrero que ya no es temporada tan alta (si bien hay muchísima gente) calculo que si viajas en diciembre o enero te va a convenir comprar el ticket a penas llegas a Guatapé para asegurarte un viaje. Pero ojo, a estar atento al horario que elegís para la vuelta, ya que los buses salen puntuales.

Guatapé es muy reconocida por los zócalos decorados que hay en toda la ciudad.

Este es el Tuc Tuc de la derecha es el que te podés tomar para ir del Peñol a Guatapé o para moverte a dentro de Guatapé.

Cartagena

 Primeras horas en Cartagena

En mi caso llegue a Cartagena en avión. Para llegar desde el aeropuerto hasta la ciudad amurallada me tome un Taxi que me costo $14.000 col, estate atentx de seguir las indicaciones y tomarte el taxi en la parada ‘autorizada’. Una vez que salís del aeropuerto, te preguntan hasta dónde vas en una taquilla y te dan un ticket donde te aparece el precio del viaje, calculo que implementaron esta medida como una forma para que los taxistas no estafen a los turistas.

A penas me baje del taxi no podía de parar de mirar para todos lados y pensar cómo iba a hacer para recorrer semejante ciudad en solo tres días. Mi mejor consejo es que te calmes! te pongas tus zapatos cómodos y empieces a caminar. Sinceramente antes de viajar a Cartagena, investigue, leí y hasta vi un sinfín de videos de YouTube, había algo de esta ciudad que me fascinaba y necesitaba saber que no me iba a perder ni una sola esquina. Malas noticias, este sistema de organización meticuloso no funciona en esta ciudad, ¿Podés ir con una lista de cosas que te gustaría hacer? Claro! Podés ir con una lista de un tiempo exacto que quieras que te ocupe hacerlas? La respuesta es no, en cada esquina y por cada casona que pases vas a encontrar detalles únicos e irrepetibles que hacen que esta ciudad sea única y que realmente vale la pena parar 5’ cada dos pasos para realmente verlos. 

De nuevo, mi mejor consejo es que te calmes, salgas a caminar y te pierdas. Cuando te quieras dar cuenta, después de todo un día de caminata aún te va a sobrar tiempo y vas a poder volver a esos lugares que más te llamaron la atención. 

Los mejores horarios para salir a caminar son: bien temprano a la mañana (si queres recorrer y sacarte fotos) y a la tardecita (para tomar/comer algo) Evitá lo más que puedas el mediodia, porque hace MUCHO calor y hay muchisima gente en las calles. Es CLAVE bookear un hotel o hostel que tenga pileta/aire acondicionado 24/7.

Vas a ver un contraste muy grande entre edificios que están impecables, y edificios que parecen deteriorados. Esto pasa porque al haberse proclamado Cartagena como patrimonio cultural por la UNESCO, absolutamente TODAS las modificaciones que se hagan tienen que seguir un estricto protocolo y hacer un montón de papeleo, que a los dueños de los edificios les cuesta mucho dinero.

Algunos lugares que no podés dejar de visitar

Teatro Pablo Heredia: 

Entrada: el guardia me dijo que la entrada era de $8.000 col, le pague con $10.000 col y me dijo que a la salida me daba el cambio. Cómo otro guardia me dejo salir por la puerta de la entrada (la principal) lo tomé como una propina al buen hombre que me dejo pasar .

La entrada principal es la fachada rosa que da al mar con puertas blancas. Si bien por acá se entra a los eventos, la entrada al palacio en sí la tenés que hacer a la vuelta, hay una puerta de vidrio con un guardia. 

Mi idea era ir al tour guiado, pero llegué el primer día que estuve en Cartagena a las 4 pm y la guía ya se había ido. De todos modos el guardia fue muy amable y me dejó pasar y recorrerlo sola, si SOLA, ni yo me lo podía creer, estuve como 45’ recorriendo el lugar por mi cuenta. 

Con su estilo de teatro de la ópera europeo de los siglos XVIII y XIX, el Teatro Heredia, oficialmente conocido como Teatro Adolfo Mejía, fue construido en forma de herradura, con palcos y balcones divididos por celosías de cedro que parecen encajes. Se construyó sobre la antigua iglesia de la Merced y fue inaugurado en 1911 con la realización de los juegos florales. En su interior hay escaleras y esculturas de mármol italiano.

Me hubiese gustado hacer el tour con la guía, pero la verdad es que recorrer este lugar completamente SOLA fue mágico. Si queres probar suerte y hacer lo mismo OJO de no dejarlo para el último día, no sé si a mi me tocó un guardia muuuy buena onda o si te dejan pasar a sí nomás.

Casa Museo De La Presentación

Entrada: gratis 

Pasé por casualidad a este lugar, vi la puerta abierta y entré. Hay un pequeño café en la planta baja, pero podés recorrer todos los pisos y casi todas las salas donde tienen espacios muy lindos. 

La Presentación Casa Museo, Arte y Cultura es el centro cultural de la Universidad Autónoma de Nariño, que desde el 2013 se ha consolidado como uno de los focos culturales por excelencia del centro histórico de Cartagena gracias a su belleza e irresistible encanto. Este centro cultural cuenta con una galería de arte conformada por 5 salas de exposición en la que se exhibe arte contemporáneo. En una de las salas se encuentra un Piano de Cola Yamaha G5, en el cual los más importantes compositores de la ciudad ofrecen recitales de música clásica y contemporánea.

Despacho Judicial de Cartagena – Cuartel del Fijo

Entrada: gratis

Muy similar a la casa museo de la Presentación, vi la puerta abierta y entré. Había un señor de seguridad que me dejó pasar tranquilamente. La fachada por fuera es rosa pastel, y por dentro celeste. Yo fui por la tarde, tal vez sea mejor ir por la mañana para que haya menos gente, el edificio en si es muy lindo, y si te metes por el fondo hay un pequeño patio divino para tomar fotos. 

Si no encontrás el lugar, guiate por esta fachada rosa. Una vez dentro, no dejes de visitar el patiecito interno celeste, es divino. Si estás en Cartagena un fin de semana, desconozco si vas a encontrar este edificio abierto porque es del gobierno.

Pasaje en Guetsemaní: 

En una de estas expediciones que te digo de caminar y perderte encontré este pasaje lleno de sombrillas, perdí el rastro de donde quedaba exactamente, pero es muy famoso, lo vas a encontrar enseguida. Yo fui a la mañana bastante temprano, calculo que es lo mejor si querés tomarte la foto icónica, ya que como te digo, es bastante famoso. 

A pocos metros de la zona exclusiva de la ciudad amurallada y saliendo por la Torre del Reloj, se encuentra Getsemaní, uno de los barrios más tradicionales y populares del centro histórico de Cartagena de Indias. Tradicionalmente, este era un barrio de la clase trabajadora. 

Durante mucho tiempo Getsemaní fue un sector prohibido para los turistas, porque el barrio siempre fue estigmatizado por algunos sectores sociales de Cartagena de Indias, como un barrio pobre e inseguro. Con el trabajo de sus habitantes nativos, el barrio se transformó en una de las nuevas alternativas para disfrutar de la Cartagena, en líneas generales lo vi mucho más contemporáneo, alternativo y ‘joven’. Entonces, si a Bocagrande le dicen el ‘Miami’ de Cartagena, este sería el Wynwood paisa. En una de las expediciones nocturnas que hice a Guetsemaní, si pude notar que como te contaba, hay mucha mayor concentración de gente joven por las calles, siendo que en la ciudad amurallada se ven más familias o parejas (hablo en la generalidad). En cuanto a oferta hotelera, mucha gente cree que Guetsemaní es considerablemente más barato, por lo que yo pude ver cuando estaba buscando hostels hoy en día ya no es tan marcada la brecha entre la ciudad amurallada y Guetsemaní tenés hostels, hoteles y opciones gastronómicas de todos los rangos de precio y gustos. 

En la zona de Getsemaní vas a encontrar el café Havana, por las noches es conocido por pasar música salsa. Yo iba a ir, pero otro viajero me comentó que es una de las típicas trampas para turistas y desistí. Si vas, tené en cuenta que te cobran entrada, que los tragos son carísimos y la música no es tan buena.

Castillo San Felipe: 

Entrada: $25.000 col

Desde Getsemaní, podes llegar tranquilamente caminando hasta el castillo. Es imponente y la historia es muy interesante. Mi única recomendación: ojo con los túneles jaja, me metí a uno que empecé a bajar hasta encontrarme con un pasadizo sin salida y lleno de agua con barro, si… tuve que subir de nuevo con los pies embarrados. 

El Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas fue construido durante la colonización española. Esta enorme fortaleza lugar fue declarada Patrimonio de la Humanidad por la Unesco en el año 1984 junto al centro de Cartagena de Indias. Su construcción se inició en el año 1536 y se culminó en el año 1657. Se construyó con la finalidad de poder observar con mayor facilidad las continuas invasiones y ataques que sufría la ciudad a manos de ejércitos y piratas ingleses y franceses, y poder defenderse de ellos.

Definitivamente te recomiendo hacer esta excursión a primera hora de la mañana. La edificación tiene poca a nada sombra, por lo que al mediodía/tarde, debe ser un infierno.

Palacio de la Inquisición: 

Entrada: 21.000 col 

En el palacio vas a encontrar la historia, justamente de la inquisición en Cartagena. En mi opinión no vale mucho la pena, la verdad soy muy fan de los museos pero sentí que no estaba del todo claro la explicación y no tenían un orden para recorrerlo. En un tour que hice un día después, me dijeron que cuando pagas podes pedirles un audio guía, a mi no me lo ofrecieron pero para que lo tengas en cuenta. La edificación tampoco era impresionante como para ir por las instalaciones. 

Museo Rafael Nuñez ⠀⠀⠀

Entrada: gratuita ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀

En la sede del museo vivió y murió Rafael Núñez, un ilustre cartagenero que ocupó la presidencia en cuatro ocasiones. Desde este lugar surgieron las ideas fundamentales que generaron una de las más grandes reformas políticas del país en el siglo XIX: la Constitución de 1886. Ésta dirigió el curso de Colombia hasta 1991, año en el que se escribió la actual Carta Magna.

Horarios de atención
Lunes: cerrado al público / Martes a viernes: 9:00 a.m. a 5:00 p.m. / Sábado: 10:00 a.m. a 4:00 p.m. / Domingos: 10:00 a.m. a 4:00 p.m.

Hora de comer

La verdad la gastronomía en sí es bastante costosa en la ciudad amurallada, pero cuenta con una variedad bastante interesante de puestos callejeros. Algunos snacks que te recomiendo probar:

Raspado: un señor en frente del museo naval los vende, es hielo raspado con jarabes y leche condensada, muy rico y refrescante.  Precio: $2.000 col

Mango con limón y sal: los vas a encontrar en casi cada esquina en los puestitos que venden frutas. Al principio me pareció una combinación un poco rara, pero la verdad el limón y la sal le dan el toque extra al mango. Precio: $2.500 col

Arepa con queso: el puesto donde la compre queda en frente de la Iglesia Santo Domingo y siempre está a la tarde al lado de un puesto de limonadas. Te recomiendo que la comas al atardecer si sos de estómago volátil cuando hace demasiado calor como yo. Es bastante pesada, pero vale la pena. Pedile que te la tuesten bien. Precio: $2.500 col

Limonada de coco con yogur helado: Es un local que se llama ‘Yogyou’ y queda muy cerca de la plaza Simón Bolívar, parece que vendiera solo yogur helado, pero también hacen estas limonadas. Creo que es la que más me gusto en toda Colombia, el yogur le daba el toque extra pareciéndose más a una malteada que a una limonada. Precio: $9.000 col

A la mujer de la derecha, se las llamaba ‘palanqueras’. En la actualidad, siemplemente son muejeres disfrazadas. Tené en cuenta, que CUALQUIER foto que te saques son ellas o a ellas vas a tener que pagarlas con una propina bastante abundante.

Santa Marta

¿Cómo ir de Cartagena a Santa Marta?

Inicialmente mi idea era tomarme un taxi/Uber desde ciudad amurallada a la terminal de transportes de Cartagena (costo aprox $25.000/$35.000) y de ahí tomarme un bus hasta la terminal de Santa Marta ($25.000 col aprox) el total sin contar con el transporte que me tomaría desde la terminal a el hostel de Santa Marta era de $60.000 col aprox. Estuve investigando en varias agencias de ciudad amurallada y muchas me recomendaron la compañía MarSol. 

Los buses de 6 a 10 am salen cada hora y luego cada dos horas. En el hostel me dijeron que podía ir sin reservar antes el mismo día, para estar segura fui caminando hasta la agencia que no queda para nada lejos. Está a una cuadra de la casa de Rafael Núñez aprox 2 cuadras por fuera de la ciudad amurallada. Allí hice mi reservación para la mañana siguiente, sólo me pidieron mi pasaporte y un número de contacto. El precio se cancela el mismo día que te tomas el bus, y te piden que estés 20 minutos antes del horario de salida. 

Hay dos opciones: 

 ⁃ Que te pasen a buscar por tu hostel de Cartagena + el transporte hasta el hostel en el que te quedes en Rodadero/Santa Marta $52.000 col

 ⁃ Transporte desde la terminal hasta donde te quedes en Rodadero/Santa Marta $44.000 col

Como el bus no tenía permitido entrar a ciudad amurallada, a mi me convenía irme en taxi hasta MarSol ($8.000 col) total $52.000 col 

El precio es incluso menor de hacer el trayecto desde la terminal de Cartagena, y me dejaron en la puerta de mi hostel en Santa Marta.

¿Cómo ir de Santa Marta a Cartagena?

El proceso es casi el mismo, la oficina de Marsol en Santa Marta queda en Carrera 4 nro 24-20. Fui al mediodía del mismo día que quería viajar y cómo era por la tarde tenía las opciones de 13:30 y 16:30, elegí este último horario y que pasen por mi al hostel. Me dijeron que esté lista una hora antes que hacen el recorrido para buscar a la gente de los hoteles y a las 15:45 aprox pasaron por mi. Esta vez con el recargo de que me pasen a buscar me salió $52.000 col

Ojo con los tiempos del transporte: si estás muy justx con el horario de 16:30 para llegar a Cartagena en 4 horas aprox, tomate el que está antes. En el que yo viaje habremos salido de Santa Marta recién a las 17 hs y una chica que tenía que ir directo al aeropuerto se quejó todo el viaje de que iba a perder su vuelo. En el camino nos encontramos con un accidente de tránsito, así que imagínense como estaba la amiga del vuelo. Me parece irrelevante aclarar este tipo de cosas porque nadie en su sano juicio debería hacer un transfer terrestre para hacer conexión con un aéreo con tan poco margen, pero bueno cada uno con lo suyo.

Al ser un puerto donde llegan barcos de carga y pesca, el agua de la playa no es nada linda como para nadar.

Santa Marta

Lo primero que me llamo la atención a penas llegue a mis hostel es la cantidad de comercio callejero. Al menos en la zona en la que estaba mi hostel ‘Masaya’ (en la parte de Tayrona te cuento un poco más de por qué lo elegí)

En la zona de plaza de los novios hay un poco menos de comercio informal y es una zona más de restaurantes. La buena noticia: la gastronomía en general es mucho más budget friendly que en Cartagena. 

En lo personal, yo fui a Santa Marta porque es imposible ir desde Cartagena a Tayrona en un día (no te dan los tiempos). En Santa Marta en sí no hay mucho para ver, pero si hay lugares lindos cerca como Playa Blanca o Taganga.

Algunas recomendaciones para comer:

El bistró: 

Fue mi primer almuerzo mientras que esperaba para hacer el check in en mi hostel. 

Queda muy cerca de la plaza de los enamorados. Yo me pedí un plato de casuela de mariscos, patacón y ensalada + una limonada de coco (de la cual me volví fan y te recomiendo que la pruebes) Como entrada me sirvieron una sopa que estaba muy bien. Tiene mesas afuera y adentro, yo fui al mediodía así que me senté a dentro para aprovechar el fresco del aire acondicionado. 

Precio:  $23.000 col + $2000 col de propina.

Helado callejero:

Sobre la Carrera 5 (donde abundan los puestos de comercio informal) vas a encontrar señoras con freezers en la calle. Lo bueno: venden gustos con frutas de la región además del tradicional chocolate. 

Precio: cono con dos bochas $1.500 col 

En el fondo podés ver la cantidad de comercio callejero. Yo personalmente no me sentí insegura, pero porque me prendo como garrapata a mis cosas y siempre ando con la mochila con candados, pero OJO!

Perros (calientes) ‘ToGo’:

El local queda muy cerca del parque de los novios. Había pasado que salí a comer con gente del hostel y nadie se ponía de acuerdo de que quería comer. Este lugar es idea, o simplemente si te gustan los perros calientes o ‘hot dogs’. Tienen varias opciones de salchicha, yo elegí una que se llamaba suiza que era grillada a la parrilla. Me salió $10.000 col, le podes poner el topping que quieras, desde aderezo, hasta papas pay, pepinos, hasta choclo!!!! Si vas no te olvides que el precio incluye que te calienten todo junto y que te pongan una feta de queso arriba lo que luego ayuda bastante a que no se te salga todo el topping que le pusiste por todos lados. El precio no incluye bebida, pero la podes comprar a parte. Destacó el nivel de atención de la gente que trabajaba en el lugar, fui un sábado en pleno carnaval y estaba llenísimo de gente, aún así se ocupaban de limpiarte la mesa y conseguirte un lugar para sentarte.

‘Cholaos’: 

Pedí el rastro de la dirección, pero es muy cerca de perros calientes ToGo, el cholao es un tipo de raspado al que le agregan fruta, helado y leche condensada. Realmente es riquísimo! Un vaso bastante abundante en este lugar me costo $8.000 col.

Playa Blanca

A no confundirse que hay una playa blanca de Barú en Cartagena y otra en Santa Marta. 

Es una opción ideal si estás en Santa Marta unos días y queres ir a remojarte un poco. A diferencia de la playa del centro de Santa Marta y El Rodadero es mucho más limpia e incluso la arena es más gruesa. 

Para llegar a la versión Santamarteña tenés que caminar hasta la calle que está al lado del puerto/playa y tomarte un bus azul que dice ‘Rodadero’ y cuesta $1.600 col. Por las dudas pregunta si va realmente hasta Rodadero ya que algunos van a el aeropuerto y no pasan por la playa. 

Tenés que pedirles que te avisen cuando estés en ‘la primera entrada’ de Rodadero. Una vez ahí caminas derecho hasta la playa y de ahí hacia la izquierda. Te vas a dar cuenta porque hay muchas lanchas de pesqueros de color amarillo.  Atento al horario: las primeras lanchas salen a las 8 de la mañana, yo llegue a las 7 a la playa por lo que me tocó esperar. El pasaje hasta Playa Blanca lo compras en unas casitas de madera que justamente dicen ‘Tayrona- Taganga – Playa Blanca’ tiene un costo de $12.000 col por la ida y la vuelta, y podes volver hasta las 16:30 hs. 

Los precios para comer son razonables, con un pequeño recargo pero no llegan a ser el doble que en Santa Marta. 

Cosas para hacer en Playa Blanca

No te quedes sin subir el cerro

Es un poco empinado, pero la vista vale la pena. Lamentablemente no encontré una forma de caminar hacia la parte izquierda del mirador, el camino estaba muy feo y preferí no arriesgarme, pero de todos modos la vista es muy linda hasta donde podés ir. Las escaleras (bastante precarias) quedan al lado del lugar donde llegas con el canopy. ¡No te olvides tus zapatillas! La tierra está un poco floja y la mayoría con piedritas como para hacer el trayecto en chanclas. Si podés hacerlo a penas llegas mejor, cuanto más tarde más calor y más dura va a ser la subida. 

Cuando subas al mirador vas a ver que hay una playa sin gente al otro lado. Lamentablemente no se puede bajar desde el mirador (por eso estaba vacia jaja).

Canopy

Hay dos formas de hacerlo, subiendo desde el acuario (que es solo la bajada) y cuesta $35.000 col o que te suban desde la base y de ahí te tiren que cuesta $40.000 col, recomiendo totalmente que lo hagas desde la base, aprovechas la vista mientras que te suben y después le pedís al señor que te tire con todo. Creo que es una de las razones por las que fui hasta esta playa y no me arrepiento. 

Es clave decirle al muchacho que te recibe arriba que te arroje con toda la fuerza. Realmente recomendada esta experiencia.  

Snorkel

O ‘careteo’ como le dicen en Colombia. Yo había llevado el mío, realmente no vale la pena. El agua si bien es un poco clara, no lo suficiente para avistar cardúmenes y la verdad es que no había muchos ni muy lindos.

Lo Malo

Hay muy poca, casi nula sombra. Esto es un problema porque en mi caso que iba sola no me convenía alquilar una de las carpas así que termine yéndome temprano antes de morir insolada. Además la playa en si es bastante chica y los fines de semana se llena, más allá del cerro que podes subir no hay mucho más que hacer.

Tayrona

¿Cómo llego de Santa Marta a Tayrona?

Tenes que ir hasta el ‘Mercado público’ la ubicación exacta es carrera 9 y 11, pero te vas a guiar mejor si pones en la aplicación de mapas que tengas el nombre del mercado. 
Una vez allí tenes que tomarte unos buses blancos con verde y preguntarle por las dudas si va hasta Tayrona, el costo es de $7.000 col 

Entrada Parque Tayrona

Lo que primero tenés que saber, es que el parque cierra del 28 de enero al 28 de febrero TODO EL MES, yo incluso quería hacer primero Tayrona antes que Cartagena, pero no me daban los días porque recién habría el 1 de marzo. La entrada para extranjeros es de $63.500 col.
 
Te recomiendo que la compres online, si bien existe un descuento para estudiantes si sos extranjero puede que te den vueltas y no quieran hacértelo además de que la entrada al parque tiene cupos diarios!!!!! Dato importantísimo, porque puede pasar que hagas una cola de 3 horas o más sólo para comprar la entrada y luego tengas que volver el día siguiente. Si tenés la entrada comprada con antelación la fila para entrar es mucho más corta (estate atento a esto para no meterte en la fila de la gente que la tiene que comprar). También tenés que saber que más si es fin de semana, muchísima gente local va al parque, por lo que las filas siguen llenándose de gente. La entrada del Zaino abre de las 8 a las 17. Cuanto más temprano estés (aunque tengas entrada) mejor. 
 
Una vez adentro podes elegir tomar unas busetas por 3.000 col que te acercan hasta el parqueadero, la zona en donde arrancas realmente el recorrido. Te ahorras 5 km de caminata. Sé que cuando llegas vas a pensar que es pan comido, pero tranquilx te queda aún mucho por recorrer. 
 
Importante! Seguro dentro del parque: 
 
Si compras online, vas a cancelar únicamente un seguro correspondiente a un solo día de estadía. En mi caso me quedaba 3 días y 2 noches, es decir que como había comprado uno tenía que pagar por los otros dos días. Acá el dato importante: el seguro que te ofrecen en la taquilla como tal o el que compras con la entrada online se llama ‘Medlife’ y sirve para … prácticamente nada. La pulsera es blanca y te dice que cualquier cosa que te pase dentro del parque llames a un número…. es decir si te caes por la cornisa y estás muriendo llama a ese número. Luego hay otro seguro que se llama ‘Médicos internacionales’ las pulseras son verdes o amarillas y la diferencia de precio con el que te ofrecen en la taquilla es de 1000 o 2000 colombianos, dato importante: este seguro tiene médicos en casi todos los campings!!! 
 
Lo importante acá es que los médicos que manda ‘Médicos internacionales’ están a disposición solo para quienes compraron ese seguro, si sos de Medlife morite tranquilo. En mi caso pise mal y me esguince a la ida, tuve suerte de tenía ibuprofen o en la mochila, no era la primera vez que me pasaba y supe cómo manejarlo. Incluso tuve que comprar una sprite para ponerme como ‘hielo’ en la zona porque al no haber luz y funcionar todo como generadores, usan los refrigeradores para enfriar y no había hielo. 
 
Este seguro con médicos adentro hablando con una de las médicas que estaba en uno de los campings lo podes comprar a la entrada, desconozco dónde porque en la taquilla en sí me ofrecieron sólo Medlife. Pero supuestamente a penas te bajas del bus en la entrada del zaino hay a la derecha unos puestos que pareciera que en realidad venden cosas, pero es un punto de información y ahí se compran. Por favor estate atentx! Obvio que la idea es que no te pase nada, pero por ejemplo en mi caso iba con todas las precauciones y el pisar mal fue un accidente. No entes al parque sin el seguro que tiene la pulsera de color! Por más que en la taquilla te digan que son lo mismo. 

En Tayrona vas a encontrar de todo: monos, iguanas y hasta COCODRILOS!!! si, cocodrilos justo al lado de la playa (yo los ví, asi que no te tomes los cartelidos de peligro en broma). Si la vida natural no es lo tuyo, te recomiendo que te saltees Tayrona.

Cosas que necesitas para visitar el parque

⁃ La entrada impresa (en caso de que la compres con antelación) no te olvides de esto porque no te la reciben si la muestras con el celular. 
⁃ Vacuna contra la fiebre amarilla. Si no la tenés, debes colocártela 10 días antes de viajar y obvio llevar el comprobante. Cuando yo entré no controlaban nada, incluso ni el video de seguridad me hicieron ver, pero mejor prevenir que lamentar. 
⁃ Pasaporte 

Cosas extras que podrías necesitar

⁃ Zapatillas cómodas. Definitivamente no es el lugar para llevar esos zapatos lindos que te hacen doler los pies. 
⁃ Protector solar 
⁃ Repelente 
⁃ Agua, mucha agua. Sé que es un poco molesto cargar las botellas. Podes optar por eso o pagar el doble o el triple por una botella de 500cc 
⁃ Una manta para tirar en la arena. No hay repostera ni sillas en las playas 

Cosas extras que podrías necesitar si vas varios días

⁃ Reitero, mucha agua. Las caminatas son largas y vas a transpirar bastante por la humedad que hace.
⁃ Papel higiénico, artículos de higiene personal.
⁃ Algún abrigo y pantalón largo livianos. O mucho abrigo en caso de que duermas en el mirador de cabo San Juan (luego te cuento más). 
⁃ Candados, uno para los lockers qué hay en los campings donde podes dejar tus cosas y otro por si te quedas en una carpa (para cerrarla).
⁃ Provisiones: hago un párate en este punto, esto es algo que podes optar por llevar o no (siempre en mente de que adentro del parque tenés que multiplicar la precios por dos o tres y que las opciones que vas a encontrar básicamente son arroz con frituras en todas sus variantes: pescado frito, pollo frito, patacón frito). Para mí la oferta de ‘comida de playa’ fue lo que me llevo a tomar la decision de hacer una visita al supermercado en Santa Marta antes de partir hacia Tayrona, créanme, no fue nada placentero llevar el bolsito lleno de fruta, verdura, cereal y enlatados mientras que me trasladaba de un punto A a un punto B, pero como te decía depende de cada uno. En mi caso soy un poco particular con la comida no como casi frituras y consumo mucha fruta y vegetales, además de que soy propensa a intoxicaciones cuando hace demasiado calor (y créanme, Tayrona no es el mejor lugar para sentirte mal). 

Mi itinerario para 3 días y 2 noches

Primer día:

Dejé mis mochila grande en el hostel de Santa Marta, en mi caso había reservado en Masaya porque sabía que te los guardaban sin problema, pero es importante que averigües en el hostel en el que te quedes si podes dejar equipaje por un par de días. Tome el bus en el mercado público a eso de las 7 am, a las 8:30 estaba en la entrada del Zaino. En la caminata hasta arrecifes tarde como 2 horas, ten en cuenta que en el camino me esguincé. Camina con mucho cuidado y si vas cargado contempla la opción de mandar las cosas a caballo hasta el camping en el que te vas a quedar e ir vos a pie. Ese fue mi principal error, el camino de parqueadero hasta arrecifes es el más complicado y yo iba con dos mochilas chicas + un bolso de tela con botellas de agua.

Con el percance y todo llegué a el camping Don Pedro. Había hecho la reservación de una carpa antes de llegar, conseguí el contacto de este camping vía su página web. Un día en carpa me costo 40.000 col. Tenían luz por la mañana y a la tarde de 18 a 22 hs, un pequeño restaurante y servicio de wifi por 5.000 mil.

No tenían lockers en mi caso que me quedé en una carpa no fue problema porque deje ahí mis cosas, pero si dormís en hamacas calculo que tendrás que caminar con tus pertenencias hasta la noche. Las duchas son al aire libre obvio, estilo camping, pero tanto estás como los baños los mantenían bastante limpios.

De ahí camine hasta la piscina, en el camino a esta playa te encontrás con varias playas que en algunas se puede nadar y en otras no. Te vas a dar cuenta en cuales no se puede porque el oleaje es bastante agresivo.  Honestamente me gusto mucho más la zona de playas al rededor de la piscina que el cabo San Juan en sí.

Cuando te dicen que las carpas son para una sola persona… no es broma! Cualquiera sea el camping al que vayas, te recomiendo full las carpas, si bien a la noche pueden ser un poco calurosas, te protegen de los bichos y durante el día las podés dejar cerradas con tus cosas adentro, cosa que en las hamacas no podés.

Segundo día:

Me desperté súper temprano y tipo 6 salí de camping Don Pedro hasta cabo San Juan llegue allá a pasadas las 7 y me a note en la lista para las hamacas del mirador. Importante en la taquilla del Zaino te dicen que podes reservar hamacas en Cabo San Juan, pero se refieren a las que están en la base del camping no a las del mirador.

Durante el día recorrí un poco la playa, a decir verdad cabo San Juan es bastante chico, y a mi gusto se puede disfrutar sólo a la mañana o cerca del atardecer para sentarse a leer algo, durante el mediodía y gran parte de la tarde hay muchísima gente, y eso que yo fui en época de carnaval y temporada baja.

Yendo hacia la parte izquierda de la playa hasta el fondo, encontrás una especie de escaleras de piedras. El camino que sigue una vez que subís te lleva a la primer playa, a la que yo bautice como la falsa playa nudista. En el caso de que llegues a Tayrona en lancha, ahí es donde te la vas a tomar para volver. Siguiendo hasta la punta de la falsa playa, vas a encontrar un nuevo sendero, este si te lleva a la playa nudista. Durante la mañana ambas playas están casi vacías, a la tarde hay un poco más de gente pero ambas son ideales para escapar el tumulto del cabo. Lo único malo, es que ambas playas no son aptas para nadar, la gente igualmente lo hacía peor tenés que tener en cuenta el tema de la prudencia si optas por hacerlo también y de mantenerte en la orilla, porque las corrientes son bastante fuertes.

Un tip, casi donde termina la playa nudista encontré uno de los lugares más tranquilos de todo Tayrona. Si no te da pudor el nudismo y por qué no para aprovechar una caminata como viniste al mundo, este lugar es ideal para descansar y leer.

Tema ‘hotelería’ de este camping en particular me pareció bastante malo. Como dormía en el mirador, solo tenía acceso a unos lockers minúsculos donde entraban dos o tres cosas ahí arriba. Dejar las cosas hasta que no es de noche no es una opción, porque hay muchísima gente circulando en el mirador y caminando entre las hamacas. Esto también es un problema porque si van mojados de meterse al agua y se acuestan en una de las hamacas, a la noche adivinaste! Tu cama puede que esté mojada y llena de arena. Otra cosa fueron los baños, muy pocas duchas para la cantidad de gente que había, lo mismo los baños y la higiene dejaba bastante que desear.

Ahora si, la noche en el mirador. La hamaca me costo 50.000 bastante costosa para todos los detalles que mencioné y MORI DE FRÍO! Tengo que admitir que no había llevado mucho abrigo y Kylie, una chica que conocí unas horas antes, termino prestándome unos pantalones largos, pero realmente la noche no fue para nada placentera. Las hamacas si ya no estaban húmedas, empezaban a humedecerse por el rocío y el viento a la noche y tenían un olor bastante feo que además no podías evitar porque terminabas teniendo que taparte con la misma tela para parar un poco el viento. Cómo te comentaba antes, este mirador está abierto a todo el público 24/7, incluso a la noche venía gente del campamento base a mirar y al amanecer (la razón por la cual dormí en esa bendita hamaca) la gente del camping subía y pasaba entre las hamacas con la gente todavía durmiendo para mirar. En conclusión… la relación costo/beneficio para mí no se justifica, es más no tenes ningún tipo de beneficio por el hecho de dormir en esas hamacas. Mi recomendación sería que alquiles una carpa, que encima te va a salir más barato en la base para poder dejar tus cosas seguras. Duermas cómodo, sin tanto frío y pongas el despertador bien temprano a la mañana para madrugar y ver el amanecer en el mirador.

Con estilo y elegancia, para toda la vagancia. Tapada con el trapo que uso para tirar en la arena, una camisa que de por casualidad me acordé de llevar, y los pantalones largos que me prestó Kylie… por si todavía tenés ganas de dormir en este mirador NO lo hagas jaja.

Tercer día:
Después de ver el amanecer desayune y opté por volver al parqueadero a Caballo. Tengo una especie de dualidad en el uso de animales para el transporte de personas, pero en todo el recorrido los vi muy sanos y bien alimentados. Además, tenía el tobillo aún un poco sensible y el cansancio de no haber podido dormir por el frío.

El viaje me costó 40.000 col y tarde aproximadamente 1:30 en llegar al parqueadero. Al lado de las 3 que hubiese tardado si iba a pie. Lo interesante de este paseo es que el caballo va por otros senderos que no pueden ir las persona, y si bien en partes tenés que tener un poco de nervios de acero en la subidas y bajadas que hace el caballo fue un paseo placentero.

La vuelta fue igual que la ida: bus desde el parqueadero hasta la taquilla y luego el otro bus hasta el mercado de Santa Marta. Ojo con los taxistas que te intentan vender el viaje, porque si cuando salís a la entrada de Zaino no está el bus blanco con verde, es cuestión de esperar unos minutos y llega.

San Andrés

Antes de entrar a la isla, tenés que saber que hay que comprar una ‘tarjeta de turista’ que sale 40 dólares. Es un papel de unas 3 hojas que tenés que completar. En mi caso salí de Cartagena, por lo que tuve que comprarla allí. Una vez en san Andrés les dejas la primera hoja y te guardas las otras dos. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀

Es importante que no pierdas este papel porque cuando salís de la isla te lo vuelven a pedir para quedarse con otra de las hojas.

Llegué a la mañana a la Isla, estaba lloviznando y con bastante humedad. Algo que tenés que tener en cuenta, es que la isla cuenta con clima tropical, por ahí tenés un día súper soleado y de repente aparece una nube y empieza a llover. No te preocupes! Las lluvias duran muy poquito y luego sale el sol de nuevo.

¿Dónde quedarse?

La isla mide aprox 30 km de diámetro. Es relativamente chica y tenés opciones de alojamiento en casi todos lados. La zona norte de la isla es la parte céntrica, donde queda el aeropuerto y a dónde vas a encontrar la gran mayoría de tiendas comerciales. La parte sur en mi opinión tiene las mejores playas (y con menos gente, sobre todo) pero te queda un poco trasmano del centro. 

En mi caso, como iba solo 2 noches y 3 días, preferí quedarme en el centro para tener el aeropuerto más a mano al igual que las excursiones.

A San Andrés se la conoce como la isla de los siete colores porque en el agua alcanzas a ver literalmente siete tonalidades distintas de azul. Esto pasa porque de un metro a otro de distancia, la profundidad del agua puede variar muchisimo. En lo personal, tuve la suerte de conocer muchas playas y paises del caribe y sinceramente hasta el día de hoy San Andres sigue teniendo las playas más lindas que ví. 

Paseo por la isla

En el hotel que te quedes, seguramente te ofrezcan alquilar una, si te estás quedando en la zona céntrica no se la alquiles a ellos, te la cobran considerablemente más cara y hay una zona que tiene más variedad y conseguís mejores precios

Cerca de donde termina la playa Spratt Bay seguís caminando por la zona de la derecha y vas a encontrar la mayoría de las empresas que alquilan estos carritos. Para recorrer la isla tenés tres opciones:

Moto: es la opción más barata seguramente, desconozco el precio porque no la considere. Tené en cuenta de que vas a estar todo el día abajo del sol y que estas motos no tienen techito, además no te dan casco ni ningún elemento de seguridad.

Carrito de golf: aprox el precio es de $100.000 col y $120.000. Son eléctricos, y considerablemente más lentos que las mulas.

Mulas: valen aprox de $140.000 col a $150.000 col. Son a nafta, tenés que tener en cuenta que algunos lugares te piden que antes de devolverlas tenés que cargarles $10.000 col de nafta que no está́ incluido en el precio. Van un poco más rápido que los carritos y algunas (la que yo alquile no) tienen espacio para guardar las cosas en la parte de adelante, abajo de lo que sería el ‘capó’.

Bici: vi gente andando en bici, desconozco si en esta zona las alquilan o si eran de un hotel. Pero si te interesa hacerlo a bici, seguramente vas a encontrar algún lugar que las alquile.

Cosas a considerar:

– El precio es por la mula de 8 a 18 horas aprox.⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
– La gran mayoría no tiene luces, espejos retrovisores ni cinturón. No es que vayas muy rápido ni con las mulas, pero el tema de las luces y los espejos para mí fue un problema.

– En mi caso tenía licencia, pero no la lleve a San Andrés, les dije que la tenía en el hotel y me la alquilaron igual. Calculo que con este mismo sistema le pueden alquilar una mula o carrito tranquilamente a alguien que no manejo nunca en su vida, y se nota porque la gente frena en de repente y en cualquier lado, y tenés que tener bastante cuidado cuando salís de algún estacionamiento en marcha atrás.

IMPORTANTE

Al momento de alquilar una mula a mí me dieron una factura con los datos de contacto del lugar en la que alquilé, si no te lo dan pídelo. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
A mi mula se le soltó un cable cuando pasé un lomo de burro…. calculo que fue cuestión de mala suerte. Tuve que llamar al lugar y vinieron a socorrerme sin problema y se solucionó́ pero el garrón fue que tuve que esperar como una hora varada, pero repito puede que haya sido cuestión de mala suerte.

Tené en cuenta que, si bien la isla es chica y la recorres en un par de horas, si querés parar en cuanto lugar se te de la gana (es lo que vas a terminar haciendo) el recorrido te va a llevar todo el día. Realmente recomiendo full alquilar una mula, y de hecho de haber tenido un día más habria recorrido otra vez la isla.

¿Qué hacer en la Isla?

Spratt Bay

El primer día aproveche a recorrer Spratt bay, la playa que está cerca del centro, almorzar algo y dar una vuelta en moto de agua.

Personalmente, esta playa es la que menos me gusto. Hay que tener en cuenta que, al estar en el centro, la mayoría de gente va ahí y está bastante superpoblada. En partes también, había bastantes algas y cómo entraban y salían las lanchas de los tours la zona para nadar era bastante acotada.

El paseo en moto de agua me costó $120.000 col una vuelta de 35 minutos. Había una opción más barata de una moto más chica de $100.000 col, pero no me inspiraba mucha confianza y el mar estaba bastante picado, así que elegí la opción de la moto más grande.

Comida:
Conseguí un plato de mojarra frita, con arroz con coco, ensalada, patacón y limonada de coco por $33.000 col en un lugar en frente de la playa que se llama ‘Tico Tico’, tenes bastantes restaurantes en la zona y de distintos rangos de precio.

De todas las actividades que podés hacer en el centro, te recomiendo full el paseo en moto de agua. Podés irte hasta donde te alcance el tiempo (sólo no te dejan ir para la zona de Johnny Cay)

West View

Entrada: $5000 colombianos
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La entrada está en el carril derecho, pero lo bueno es que a la izquierda vas a ver un estacionamiento a donde podés dejar la mula sin costo.

La entrada te incluye unas rodajas de pan para que le puedas tirar a los peces. El lugar tiene un tobogán de agua, un trampolín y una zona donde se juntan todos los peces para nadar.

Lo malo es que había una sola escalera para subir en la zona donde nadabas, esto era un problema porque la gente no respetaba a los que subían y tenías que esperar bastante para que te dejen subir.

En el lugar podés alquilar chalecos salvavidas, alquilalos si no sabes nadar muy bien, es bastante hondo y no hay zonas donde puedas hacer pie. Particularmente cuando yo fui el mar estaba bastante agitado y el mismo movimiento de las olas te terminaba cansando. También podes alquilar antiparras o ‘caretas’ te recomiendo que si no las llevaste al viaje, las compres en el centro porque las vas a estar usando en todos lados. El agua es súper clara y hay muchos peces para ver.

Adentro también había una zona para comer, y una actividad que era un bote que iba bastante rápido (no le vi mucha gracia así que no averigüé el precio).

Hay lockers que te salen también $5000 col, yo dejé mi mochila cerrada con candado en una de las reposteras porque vi que todos dejaban sus cosas ahí y nadie toco nada.

Ya te lo había comentado antes, pero si no viajaste con snorkel (caretas), te recomiendo full que las compres en el centro, junto con un buen par de zapatos de agua.

Hoyo soplador

Paré porque lo venden como una súper atracción turística. La realidad es que es un simple agujero que por la corriente sopla y sale un poco de agua cuando golpean las olas. El lugar en cuestión está lleno de lugares que venden suvenires y por ende lleno de gente que se reúne al rededor del agujero.

Ojo! La entrada al lugar es totalmente gratis, cuando intente estacionar me dijeron que, si o si tenía que comprar un trago para estacionar, cuidado con estos vendedores ambulantes porque se apropian de la calle. Estaciona un poco más adelante y no vas a tener problemas.

Me desperté súper temprano y tipo 6 salí de camping Don Pedro hasta cabo San Juan llegue allá a pasadas las 7 y me a note en la lista para las hamacas del mirador. Importante en la taquilla del Zaino te dicen que podes reservar hamacas en Cabo San Juan, pero se refieren a las que están en la base del camping no a las del mirador.

Johnny Cay

Se encuentra a aproximadamente 1,5 km de la isla de San Andrés, la mayor del archipiélago. Posee una superficie total de 4,94 hectáreas), convirtiendo a Johnny Cay en el mayor de los cayos que rodean a San Andrés.

Ojo, cuando yo fui justo los tres días de mi estadía cerraron la isla para limpiarla.

Cualquiera de los tours que elijas hacer te recomiendo que lo compres en este edificio amarillo que vas a encontrar en Spratt Bay. Es una cooperativa y tiene los mejores precios. Además, si te quedas en un hotel, es muy provable que si te ofrecen un tour te estén revendiendo el servicio de esta cooperativa.

Acuario

También llamado Rose Cay, es uno de los atractivos turísticos más importantes del archipiélago, donde se puede nadar junto con cientos de peces multicolores


El valor de la lancha saliendo a las 9 y regresando a las 13 hs es de $20.000 col

Te recomiendo ir con calzado como sandalias de agua, para que puedas mojarte los pies con tranquilidad, ya que si bien la gran mayoría del islote es de arena vas a estar caminando sobre piedras y tenés que tener mucho cuidado con los erizos de mar.

No olvides llevar un snorkel o careta, para poder realizar la actividad más popular del Acuario que consiste en nadar con peces de colores.

No existen complejos hoteleros donde hospedarse, por lo que toda la actividad que se desarrolla en el islote se lleva a cabo durante el día.

La oferta de comida en el acuario es mínima, tené en cuenta el tamaño de las islitas. Si por alguna razón elegis comer en el acuario, te recomiendo que compres snacks en la primer isla que te bajan y que la comida la pidas en la islita del costado (te vas a dar cuenta porque solo son dos). En la primera, no sólo el espacio es mínimo, sino que hay muchisima circulación de gente porque es donde descargan pasajeros las lanchas.

Todo lo que ves marrón en la foto son restos de coral, piedras y ocacionales erizos de mar = si no tenes zapatillas de agua NO VAYAS a esta excursión antes de comprarte unas.

Dónde comer mientras recorres la isla:

A la hora de comer en mi recorrida por la isla, averigüe en varios lugares y terminé parando en Stars Kitchen.

Conseguí un plato realmente abundante de patacón, arroz pulpo, ensalada y una limonada de coco por $40.000 col. El restaurante estaba ubicado en frente de la playa y la vista era súper linda.

Si llegaste hasta aquí

¡Gracias por leerme!

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Puedes escuchar mi podcast Emprende Nómada en Spotify y Google Podcast

Accede a todos los descuentos que encontré para tu próximo viaje aquí

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