Guatemala
Al final de este post vas a encontrar una sección de comentarios para que me hagas cualquier pregunta que tengas sobre este país.
Quetzal
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Temporada Alta
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Tabla de contenidos
Antigua
¿Cómo llegar desde la Santa Ana a Antigua?
Mi idea inicial era tomarme un shuttle directo desde Santa Ana a Antigua que no cuestan más de 25 dólares. Saliendo de Quito, con la empresa Interjet me obligaron a tener un pasaje de salida de El Salvador y obvio que la única opción de pasajes que se conseguían online, eran con la empresa Pullman hasta Ciudad de Guate que me costó 35 usd.
El trayecto duró 4:30hs y si bien, el bus era uno de los más fancy que tomé hasta el momento, si viajas a lo #mochipobre como yo, es un gasto innecesario. Esta empresa te deja en un hotel que se llama Holiday muy cerca del aeropuerto y para ser sincera la gente de la empresa no te va a ayudar en nada si querés tomarte un chicken bus y no sabes cómo llegar a la estación.
Desde este hotel holiday me cobraban 20 dólares más para llevarme hasta Antigua (en total el trayecto 55 en un viaje que me debería haber costado 25 o menos… estoy re dolida al respecto jajaj). Con mi orgullo herido y sin saber cómo llegar en bus hasta un shopping que se llama Tikal Futura, que es donde salen los buses hacia antigua, pedí un Uber que desde el aeropuerto hasta allá me cobraban 8 dólares!!! Carísimo para la distancia que es. Cuando me subí, me puse a hablar con el conductor y le conté toda la travesía y le dije que el shuttle me llevaba por 15 (en vez de los 20, pues regateo intenso Mode on) y el man me ofreció a llevarme por ese dinero hasta antigua, lo cual en uber es una ganga porque un viaje usualmente te puede costar 25 a 30 usd, pero me explico que a el le servía porque yo le pagaba directamente y desde Uber le hubiesen sacado la comisión y habría cobrado lo mismo.
De todos modos, está no es la opción más recomendable, desde Santa Ana te recomiendo totalmente que tomes algo directo, ciudad de Guatemala tiene mucha oferta de transporte público (transmetro y chicken bus) pero que es inutilizable si no sabes cómo llegar de un punto A a un punto B y más si tenes pensado ir en chicken bus, donde los trayectos no son para nada claros.
En la frontera realmente no te hacen muchas preguntas. No te olvides de cambiar dolares a un par de Quetzales antes de llegar. Yo venia acostumbrada a usar USD en Ecuador y El Salvador, y me olvidé completamente. En la frontera hay gente que cambia… pero obviamente a un tipo de cambio peor al de un aeropuerto.
Lugares para visitar en Antigua
Antigua es una ciudad para caminar hasta cansarse. Vas a ver muchas ruinas y conventos en toda la ciudad. Tené en mente que en casi todos te van a cobrar un ingreso (y por ser turista los precios son aún más elevados). Lo que yo te recomiendo hacer, es antes de ir investigar un poco y elegir uno o dos para entrar.
Muchas de las callecitas tienen una vibra muy parecida a Colonia del Sacramento, en Uruguay.
El Arco de Santa Catalina es uno de los lugares más reconocidos de la ciudad de Antigua Guatemala y hasta fue declarado patrimonio de la humanidad por la UNESCO
Pertenecía a las monjas reclusas del convento de Santa Catalina Virgen y Mártir, pero tras el traslado forzoso de la capital de la Capitanía General de Guatemala de Santiago de los Caballeros de Guatemala a la Nueva Guatemala de la Asunción luego de los Terremotos de Santa Marta en 1773, la estructura quedó abandonada. Un tip si si querés una foto sin tanta gente: andá bien temprano, porque a media mañana y luego del mediodía explota de gente.
La ciudad de Antigua esta rodeada de 4 volcanes: Pacaya, de Agua, Acotenango y de Fuego. Yo en particular iba a hacer un tour para subir el volcán Acotenango de noche para ver el amanecer.
La travesía consistía en comenzar el ascenso a las 11 pm y llegar aprox a las 5 am del día siguiente a la cima. Para hacer la historia corta, logré subir una hora antes de sufrir mal de altura. Una combinación de frio, falta de aclimatación y una muy mala alimentación el día anterior (me había comido un sandwich en un puesto callejero que terminó con mi estómago… pues nunca aprendo) hicieron que por primera vez en mi viaje tenga que parar y abandonar un trekking. Fue un muy buen recordatorio en lo personal, para saber cuándo uno tiene que parar y descansar. Ademas, es una excelente excusa para volver a Antigua por la revancha.
Te recomiendo que no dejes de ir al Hotel Casa Santo Domingo, es uno de los hoteles más caros de Antigua que además tiene un museo y unas ruinas. Tanto al museo como caminar por las galerías del hotel es gratis, las ruinas se pagan, pero el costo no es tan elevado como las que vas a encontrar fuera. El hotel en sí es precioso, tiene mucho verde y es un excelente lugar para hacer una pausa y escapar del sol por un rato.
Al caminar por Antigua, vas a notar que es un pueblo lleno de iglesias y ruinas de iglesias.
Pero en cuestión de términos, no todas eran “iglesias”. La Antigua Guatemala contó con varias órdenes religiosas, por ello cada una contaba con un lugar propio para adoración, como capillas privadas o iglesia propiamente dicha.
Realmente nunca vi una ciudad con tantas iglesias!! Pensé que en Cusco había muchas, pero Antigua realmente se lleva el podio.
Transporte en Antigua
Creo que los chicken buses más lindos los vi en Guatemala. Como te conté en el post de El Salvador, los chicken buses son buses escolares renovados, es increíble el nivel de esfuerzo y detalle que le ponen sus conductores, algunos hasta tienen luces led de colores en el interior.
Vas a escuchar mucho que la gente no te los recomiende por ser inseguros, pero la verdad es que yo me tomé un par y andando siempre con prudencia, no los sentí nada inseguros.
Ciudad
¿Cómo ir de Antigua a la ciudad de Guatemala?
Este trayecto dije: ahora lo voy a hacer a lo #mochipobre cómo corresponde jajaj. Para ir desde Antigua a Guate, tomé los benditos chiken buses. Para tomártelo podés elegir salir desde el terminal de Antigua o tomártelo en cualquier punto de la ‘Calle 7’ un poco más saturados de gente. Yo me lo tomé en calle 7, y el trayecto me costó 10 quetzales.
Hay mucho estigma con estos buses, en internet leí cosas como que eran inseguros por violencia entre bandas, etc, etc. Yo la verdad es que no me sentí insegura, es más los drivers me ayudaron con mi mochila y la pusieron al lado del conductor (puede pasar que te la manden al techo si hay muchas cosas ahí adelante). Lo único que sí, tome la precaución de sentarme adelante para tener a la vista mi mochila por las dudas.
¿Son inseguros? Te diría que no, si te los tomas en horarios de día. Ahora, ¿son cómodos? definitivamente NO. En cada asiento van 3 personas y el trayecto de Antigua hasta Guate tiene bastantes curvas por lo que te vas a sentir en una montaña rusa, además de que el espacio personal es algo que no existe en estos buses. Con todo esto dicho, tené en cuenta que es una opción súper mega económica, cuesta algo más de 1 dólar, al lado de los 30/20 que te va a cobrar un Uber/Shuttle. Por lo que la relación costó, beneficio no está nada mal, además de que tarda solo 10 minutos más que un Uber en hacer el trayecto.
Me sorprendió mucho lo Pet Friendly que es la ciudad. Los fines de semana de verano, cierran las avenidas para que la gente salga a pasear con sus perros, y en casi todos los restaurantes de dejan entrar con tu mascota.
¿Qué ver en Guatemala?
Si bien no hay muchísimas cosas que ver en el centro histórico de la ciudad (en un día te recorres todo), si tienes un poco de creatividad encontrás cosas muy lindas para hacer.
Cuando estaba pasando por El Centro de correos y Telégrafos, me llamo muchísimo la atención el arco que tienen uniendo dos edificios. Me metí, pues obvio siempre dora la exploradora al segundo edificio y me indicaron que en el primer edificio podía entrar gratis a ver el arco. Me pidieron solo mi identificación (importante tener el pasaporte original o una copia en el celular) y pude recorrer el edificio casi entero.
El diseñador del edificio fue el Arquitecto e Ingeniero Rafael Pérez de León, en ese entonces el diseñador del General Ubico. El estilo del edificio es neo-colonial porque tiene la tendencia colonial con innovaciones de elementos y construcción en este edificio ya se utilizaba el concreto.
Adentro tiene un patecito interno divino.
Couchsurfing en Guatemala
A principios del año pasado, cuando fui a Colombia me contaron sobre la aplicación Couchsurfing, si no sabés lo que es te invito a escuchar mi podcast.
Doy fe que los mejores lugares, la mejor comida y las mejores personas las conocí gracias a couch, como en Guate; Will no solo me acepto último momento sino que además me invitó a una juntada de couch donde salimos a explorar la ciudad con los genios de Nadja, Gilda y Fernando. Buena vida chicos! Espero volver a verlos pronto!!
Cobán
¿Cómo ir de la ciudad de Guatemala a Coban?
La única forma de hacer este trayecto en transporte es con la compañía Monja Blanca. El viaje dura aproximadamente 4:30/5 horas y cuesta entre 55 a 85 quetzales. 55 una van, 70 un bus Pullman con asientos reclinables a 5 grados jaja, y 85 la versión más pro con aire acondicionado)
Podés salir con la opción más económica desde zona 1 (cerca del centro) en los horarios más tempranos de 3 ,4 y 5 am o salir luego desde la central norte (zona 18). Yo en mi caso había llamado el día anterior y chequeado la web, y decía esta información pero cuando llegue al terminal de zona 1 me dijeron que desde ese punto salían solo los de las 12, 1 y 2 am ‘versión económica’ y que en el horario que yo fui (4 am) solo salía el Pullman de 70. Le expliqué al señor de la taquilla que me había fijado en la web y había llamado y después de tanto insistirle conseguí que me deje el pasaje de 70 a 55, así que OJO con esto. Si bien es una diferencia de 2 dólares aprox (15 quetzales) averigua bien y si querías viajar con la opción de 55 que no se aprovechen.
Si salís a la madrugada como yo, tene en cuenta que en esos horarios no hay ni transmetro ni chiken buses. Un uber desde cerca del parque de la industria hasta la terminal en zona 1, me costó 21 quetzales.
El poncho fue clave en este viaje!
Cobán (del idioma quekchí, significa «entre nubes») es una ciudad y también cabecera del departamento de Alta Verapaz, localizado en la República de Guatemala a 1320 metros de altitud. En la ciudad en sí, no vas a encontrar mucho para ver y tampoco la gente está acostumbrada al turista. Si bien sentí la ciudad muy segura, te recomiendo que camines con mucha prudencia en lugares muy concurridos. También, tene cuidado con los vendedores ambulantes. Yo me compre un vaso de frutas cortadas y tuve que tirarlo porque parecía que estaban descompuestas por el calor.
Los únicos edificios ‘historicos’ que vas a encontrar, son los que rodean la plaza principal.
Mi idea inicial de venir a Coban, era hacer base acá para ir al Semuc Champey. El clima no ayudó para nada (llovió los dos días que estuve) y me tocó cancelar la misión. En cambio, tuve el gusto de conocer a Doña Marta y pasar dos días con ella, donde no solo me preparo platos típicos de Guate, sino que además me enseñó a preparar tortillas y pasta de frijoles (que nunca jamás me va a salir tan rica como la suya). Me compartió su música y hasta me enseñó un par de palabras en quekchi.
En lo que va del viaje, vi montañas hermosas, los atardeceres más lindos y las ciudades más turísticas; pero lo que más rescato de este viaje, es a todas las hermosas personas que conocí en el camino y lo mucho que aprendí simplemente hablando con ellas.
Gracias a Doña Marta, me volví pasta de frijol lovel. Pero repito, nunca me salió como a ella jaja
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